Do Paise ki Kalam: On Top of the World

Sunday, May 20, 2012

On Top of the World

“27 ton fuel, 3 hour flight, 200 people’s hard work – this is what it takes to reach one cup of coffee here at 9000 feet. If you don’t have respect for the coffee, I don’t care. But it is important to appreciate the hard work which has gone into it, Major. So finish your coffee.”

This dialogue was mouthed by Brigadier Pratap (KK Menon) to Major Chaudhury (Rahul Bose) in one the better made movies on Indian Army titled “Shaurya”.

In our recent trip to Ladakh, we motored to the highest motorable road in the world at Khardungla (18380 Feet). As we ascended to the cafeteria, Brigadier Pratap’s words kept echoing in my ear.
My respect for our Military increased manifold as we passed through this experience.

It was mid May and still it was white everywhere –thick layers of snow covering everything.

I shuddered thinking what it would be for the soldiers to be here and protect passes like this in Decembers and Januarys. One of the Jawans told us that come whatever, the Jawans posted in nearby strategic heights (Siachin & Kargil) never desert these posts.

On our naive sounding question as whether they fought enemy, they replied that their recent fights have been with the grueling weather. Kudos to our Jawans for making life work at 18000 plus feet and letting us have this wonderful experience. If this was not enough, the Jawans also served the tourists with warm flavored tea and a piping hot bowl of Maggi at a nominal cost at the world’s highest cafeteria. Back in Leh, on the day which was kept aside for acclimatizing to the dizzying heights, we had visited the Army Museum and learnt more about our young Kargil heroes

and saw the ammunition recovered from Pakistani soldiers.

This Laddakh trip, which we (me and wife) undertook with my best friend Rajeev Nagi and his wife Henu , was one of the best holidays I ever had. We witnessed it all - The azure blue sky, the pure white snow, the sand dunes and blue streaming lakes. Nature at its best!

While returning from Nubra Valley, about a kilometer before Khardungla, we got stuck in the narrow pass as a Truck turned turtle blocking the only narrow road. With snow all around and icicles hanging like glass knives, initially it looked adventurous – I and Rajeev even had few sips of Cranberry Vodka with nature’s pure ice in small plastic cups.

But as time passed and we were having no clue how long we would have to be stuck there – the surroundings became unnerving.

The light snowfall began and it all started turning gloomy. Soon Men started relieving themselves openly and women went behind the last vehicle in the long queue. We just wanted to get out of that place. It took two and half hours for Army to clear the road before we could move. Though we were told these were routine incidences there, a mere thought that what if it would have taken much longer. What if the nature had turned against us -was enough to scare.

Another dialogue of Major Pratap came back to me, “This democracy, leftist, rightist, socialist, human rights, moral science all these cease to exist 100 kms before this LoC…..”

Here are some pleasant memories which made this trip so worthwhile – on top of the world: